Kamis, 25 September 2008

Top 10 Tips You Must Know When Buying a Car


Exotic At Night


By Alex Fir

1. You should purchase your new car at or around Christmas time because with everybody buying their Christmas presents, not many of them are looking to buy a new car, and it forces dealerships to up their sales strategies. Salesmen are more willing to haggle down to your prices to close the deal.

2. You can also get a good deal from July to October because that is the time of year when dealerships are trying to get rid of their inventory to make way for the new models.

3. Purchasing a car online is becoming a great way to get a new car. Just wait for good rebates and incentives online and shop around. Print out your information from the best quotes and bring it to the dealer that you are most willing to work with. Bringing in lower quotes from another company might be your best bet in getting a good deal.

4. You should visit FightingChance.com if you are hoping to find new car prices, dealer incentives, and the best rebate offers. This site is the first place that you should go for great advice on buying a car. It’s even more informative than the Kelley Blue book. This program for buying new cars can literally save you thousands of dollars.

5. A good place to start when going into a dealership is to bring a copy of your credit score with you. It can lower your interest rates on your car loan. Your car dealer should not know more about you than you do.

6. You can avoid a common scam that dealerships pull. You will often hear that your financing fell through and that you have to respond by paying more money on your loan. Don’t believe it. It’s another reason for you to get a copy of your credit score.

7. Another common scam by dealership salesmen is for them to tell you that they have found you a lower rate, but that they want you to re-sign your loan papers. Usually, that is a downright lie. Once they pull up your financing information, they have the upper hand if you don’t know the details about your credit information. You can get a copy of your credit information online at equifax.com for about $10-$15. It’s better to pay $15 now than thousands later.

8. Don’t bring in a car for trade in if you still owe money on it. The dealership rarely pays the rest of the loan on time which will result in you having to pay a great deal of late fees to the bank. If you do decide to bring a car in that you owe money on, get it in writing from the dealership that they will pay the balance on the car within 10 days.

9. Sometimes a dealership may not have all of your options and must order the car directly from the dealership. If this happens they will often ask you to pay $500-$1000 for a deposit on the car. Try not to pay more than $500 and be sure to pay with a credit card because sometimes the dealership will tell you that there was a price increase on the vehicle and will want more money. If you pay with a credit card you have room to dispute the amount being taken from you. If you pay by check, you can just consider the money gone.

10. You should never buy a car when you are in desperate need for one because a dealer will see that and take advantage. You should never wait until an old car is dead before searching for a new one because you should give yourself time to shop around for one and get the best deal possible. Desperation often clouds your judgment.


2009 Top 10 Cars

Kamis, 11 September 2008





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Sabtu, 06 September 2008

Maintenance After the Mud Battle

Cleaning your vehicle is not just for aesthetics. Mud, especially fine particle mud like clay, tends to stick to everything above and below. Mud can build up under the wheel wells, on the frame, it can pack around the radiator, into the brake drums, on all the underside components, on the body in places where you never saw before. It's important to remove as much of the mud as possible before it turns into a permanent part of your vehicle and ultimately cause damage to your vehicle. Mud on the rims can act as a counter balance causing your vehicle to handle worse and causing vibration at the steering wheel and can lead to uneven tire wear. Mud also retains moisture. Moisture causes rust. Much your the underside of a vehicle is either unprotected from factory or loses it's protection of time and mud accelerates the rusting process. Mud is also very hard on paint, causing it to deteriorate due to moisture and can cause scratching and wear over time. So it is best remove as much of the mud as possible after each encounter with the sticky stuff. A good hose down to start with is good to get the large chunks off. For the underside, it can be helpful to let a yard sprinkler run under the vehicle for a little time to help soften and wash off under carriage mud. Pressure washing works great too for surface and underside washing. For a more through check examine items like differentials and gearbox oil for contamination and change if necessary. Also examine your differential and gearbox breathers to ensure they are functional and clear of mud and debris. Check your air filter box for mud and water that you might have inhaled and remove and clean the filter if necessary. Check your radiator and hose out any mud blocking the cooling fins of the radiator. Also check transmission coolers as well. Check all drain holes on the chassis and in the doors to be sure they are not blocked. Remove any caked on mud from brake drums, steering linkage, shifting linkage and anything else that can interfere with the mechanical operation of the vehicle. While your at it, clean your recovery straps. When you give your vehicle a good look for mud after a muddy day on the trails, you'd be surprised as to where you find mud. If there is a crack or crevice, you can be sure mud will find it's way in.


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Jumat, 05 September 2008

New Mud Tire Earns Rave Review The NEWEST Mud Monster's Birth


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Mark Harms, designer and manufacturer of the famous line of Mud Machine Bi-Claw and Tri-Claw tires, went to Louisiana to see what conditions his tires were used in. While there he found many loved his tires. But, rumor was his tire was being upstaged by TSL's Vampire. Many local swamp riders considered it the largest and most aggressive tire in the swamp.


Mark did not like another tire gathering those honors. Setting down at the drawing board he designed what would be the biggest and badest mud tire anywhere. The result is the 27" Tri-Claw Magnum.
The Test...

Dirt Wheels Magazine enlisted their Louisiana correspondent Mike Hutson and crew of swamp riders to try the tires in the bayous and mud holes of Louisiana

Mike reported... "I mounted up a set of the new 27" Tri-Claws to the front and rear of my Yamaha 350 Big Bear 4x4. I mounted the 27x12-12 tires on aluminum rims that weighted 7.9 lb. each."

While Sand Tires Unlimited (STU) says that you need a 450cc or larger quad to handle these huge meats, I found that my High Lifter-equipped Big Bear was up to the task, even with these monster tires. But you will probably need one of their lift kits to give you some added fender clearance," said Mike.

"Even with the massive rear tires mounted on the front of my Bear the steering wasn't all that difficult. I've used 27" Vampires and older 26" Mud Machines on my quad and the new Tri-Claws don't have as heavy a steering effect as those tires. They actually run smoother on the hard pack sections than the older 26" BI-Claw and 27" Vampires. I felt that there is definitely less vibration transferred to the rider with these new tires."

"We air our tires up to 10 lbs. ... even with the high tire pressure the ride isn't overly rough. The Tri-Claw Magnums work great in the swamp... ...traction you get with these new 27" tires is unbelievable!"

See the magazine for more comments... such as... tires work well in reverse... puncture resistance is very good... best self-cleaning... direct mud away from rider...

Conclusion





Mud Driving Techniques Mud Tires

JeepOne of the first things to do when encountering mud is to check it out first on foot. Not necessarily by walking though it but get close and try to find the bottom with a long stick or object. If vehicles have been driving through this mud hole before, check the tire ruts below. The key is to find solid bottom and determine if you have something to get traction on. Extremely soft mud or well abused mud may cause you to lose traction very quickly and become high centered on where tires have not been before, while the ruts go deep and sediment has created soft mud with little traction. You also want to look for objects like rocks, logs, sharp objects and anything that might damage or upset the vehicle or the tires.

Mud Tires & Mud Driving


Review Mud Tires - Read Mud Tire Reviews and Post Your Own Review of your Mud Tires Mud Terrain MT and AT (All Terrain) Tires.

As mud varies, some tips help to address certain conditions. For instance slick mud with a hard bottom layer is best attacked with a narrow mud tires since a narrow mud terrain tire can cut through the top layer to find traction on the hard surface below. When a wide mud terrain tires encounters the same mud in this situation, it tend to float or "hydroplane" on the slick top layer without reaching the hard surface below. 

A wider mud tire tends to do better in the thicker, cement-like mud especially when the terrain varies below the surface. It is this mud that wider mud tires will provide some flotation, much like driving in sand. Wider tires also benefit from lowering the tire pressures providing a larger contact patch and conforming over the uneven terrain. How much you air down depends on the size of the tire and the stiffness of your sidewall. Common air-down recommendations for mud and the average mud tires is to lower tire pressures down to about 15 to 20 PSI.

Another mud tire mud tip deals with the tread pattern of your tire. Mud tires by definition are tires that have a larger lug and wider and deeper space (voids) between lugs. In mud, these wider, deeper voids should be designed to channel mud out of the tread and self-clean the lugs so that as they spin through the mud, the lugs come down clear of mud giving them better traction for the next rotation. With good mud characteristics mud tires generally grab onto anything it can hook one of its lug edges around, especially when aired down and channel the mud away from the center. Tread designs typically are what make or break a mud tire and vary widely from manufacturer to manufacturer. If a tire is not well designed for mud, it may not self clean and will become clogged and packed with mud in the voids, essentially making them a slick, flat tire with next to zero traction. Tires that are more designed for street rather than mud are usually designed to place a larger patch of rubber on the road and a quieter ride at highway speeds with closer spaces between lugs. These road specific characteristics are more prone to clogging and have a significant disadvantage in the mud but actually benefit in sand where they tend not to "dig". Mud tires that have been designed specifically to perform well in mud tend to handle worse and have a higher noise level on paved surfaces where there is less of a contact patch on the road and typically a lack of "sipes" that aid traction.